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Check the Stamford's website for updated lists of suttlers - http://www.luckhardt.com/ecwsa6.html Powder - Specs = FFFF for the priming pan, either FFF or FF for the main charge. Standard recommendation is to use FF if the ball size is over 50, but I use FFF for my 73/12-bore caliber so it can work for either theatrical or throwing ball, works fine with less fouling. Source = hard to find, the few Bay Area gunstores that sell it often limit purchases to one pound per customer per day -- so take a friend or two. Call first to see if they have the grade you need. Alternately buy it from friends at the rifle range. Ball Specs = Hard to avoid the whole rifle-thing, where sellers assume you are using a rifled barrel and sell you ball that is too tight/large for a smoothbore. Ask your gunsmith/seller or friends for the exact size of ball for your specific gun. For fun shooting you can use ball with the sprue attached, but for competition it is best to use tumbled ball / sprueless. Source = If you have a standard barrel size, you can get ball from some gunstores, from Cabelas ( http://www.cabelas.com/ , Hunting -> BlackPowder) , and other large suppliers like Dixie. For speciality ball the best source is Thunder Ridge Muzzleloading ( http://cap-n-ball.com/thunder/warren.htm ). Avoid spending lots of cash on the whole ball-casting apparatus and tools -- a lot of hassle and toxic waste for a small return -- only go there if you have a non-standard (aka pipe) barrel and/or have already had children. Bandoliers (aka Apostles, Bandolier of Flasks) Specs = Most active US shooters avoid the "built-in" wooden primer flask, as they are not very safe without a spring-close spout, so only get it if it's included in the deal. The ball-bag is very nice to have (even if used for wadding or other stuff), but the oil-bottle is mostly for show. Some are different sizes (length of bandolier strap), so be sure to get one that will fit you. Most have twelve bottles, but this isn't required, nicer to have more. Bottle-types vary, most important is that they open one-handed, but don't open by themselves if you run about whilst wearing the bandolier. The little metal rings on the strings can be nice, but are not required to have the bottles handle correctly. Blue-painted ones were standard for some English Parliamentarian NMA units but not all, and these also had special blue&white twisted strings for the bottles. Source = Paul Meekins in the UK makes the best ( http://www.bandoliers.co.uk/ ), and his prices aren't much more than other less-authentic sources in the States. Another UK source for apostles, match, priming flasks, etc is Albion Small Arms ( http://www.albion-small-arms.freeserve.co.uk/accessories.htm ). Best US source is Sykes Suttlery ( http://sykesutler.home.att.net/musket2.htm ). Priming flask Specs = There has been a lot of discussion on which priming flask to use. The primary injury in matchlock shooting is powder flakes in the eye, usually from the shooter's priming pan on your left. Less common but much more serious is primer flask explosions, which can cause serious injury to hands and bodies. These are caused by residual hot ash/sparks in the pan, and the shooter pours the priming powder into the pan onto this spark, which then feeds back into the flask and explodes. Our theory is that the safest priming flask is one with the least amount of metal and potential compression, with leather flasks heading the list. Use a standard primer flask spring-spout, then make a sewn leather body for it. Alternately, use the smallest flask you can find, and only fill it for the required number of shots. The Baby Flask is commonly used for blackpowder pistol priming, and can be strung on a cord by twisting wire through the screw-holes. Source = Most authentic are the larger triagular wooden priming flasks with metal trim, nails, and metal spouts. Best source for these is Sykes Suttlery ( http://sykesutler.home.att.net/musket2.htm ), who is also good for match and OK for apostles. For the smallest metal flask, try Dixie or Cabelas and ask for the Baby Flask (Cabelas Item:XB-210257, Price: $11.99). Cleaning rods and materials Specs = Unless you have a short barreled gun, matchlocks often need longer cleaning rods than modern shotguns, so check the length of all rods. Cleaning rods have different end-thread sizes, so be sure the rod-end and all brushes match! Tornado brushes are great for smoothbores but are hard to find, so most of us use the standard brass shotgun-type brushes if they are close to the correct diameter. Source = Best UK source is Albion Small Arms ( http://www.albion-small-arms.freeserve.co.uk/accessories.htm ), check out the kit. The rosewood and brass cleaning rods don't seem to be available in the US, but are very nice. Dixie Gunworks ( http://www.dixiegun.com/ ) is a good US source for one-piece wooden, metal and composite rods, as is Cabelas (see ball). Gun cases Specs = You can't travel with your gun on airlines without a locking gun case, and the hard-sided cases also offer excellent protection for your guns for regular shooting trips or storage. The Cabela's case is long enough for matchlocks, very thin and fits under most van seats. Source = Best deal is Cabelas Hard-Side Black Powder Gun Case,Item: XB-210184, Price: $89.99. Soft fabric/leather sleeves can be bought at some gun shows as well as Cabelas and Dixie. |
1st Capt's Co'y, The Earl of Stamfords Rgm't of Foote